Manufacture Nationale dArmes de Chtelleraut. Many of its components have been scaled down and. It is much like a compact or carbine model of the famous 1886 and has the same dual, vertical locking system for impressive strength. The Winchester Model 1892, very similar in construction to the Winchester Model 1886, is one of these famous lever-action rifles.
Taking a closer look at a new production Miroku Winchester Model 1892 in 357 Magnum. The Chiappa 1892 Alaskan is every bit as fun and reliable as any of the other guns I. The heart of Larsson’s Bush Pilot kit is a fine replica of Winchester’s Model 1892 as produced by Chiappa Firearms of Italy. Potassium number of neutrons, Isotopes have the same number of protons, but different numbers of neutrons. M.Browning's design work.chiappa 1892 problems.
Miroku Winchester 1892 Problems How To Convert Your
I don't think anyone has done this so far.In searching the Internet about this oddity I ran across the excellent article with photos from " Steveb" at. Not back to the original Browning design but close enough for what I wanted.Parts are available from Midwest Gun Supply 6.Look in the link for the all things 1886.rebounding hammer, parts swaps and detail strip info there.Not my writing but thought it worth reposting here."I would like to share an exciting modification that I came up with for my Miroku 1886 Winchester Take Down 45-70 that goes beyond the rebounding hammer fix. Copy rights are retained by the original authors."After being quoted $600 plus the $100 shipping bill to convert the Miruko/Winchester's newest rebounding hammer and tang safety to the original Winchester half cock version I thought I'd look around.Turns out it is actually a fairly easy fix with 2 new Browning '86 parts and a few minutes with a hand file. Happily that has changed.Below are copies of several blog posts and forum threads on how to convert your rebounding hammer Winchester guns.I want to thank all those involved making this info available to the public and re-post it here only so others might find it faster. Case colors on the hammer and finger lever is next.Having owned a number of original Winchesters in various calibers and the later Browning clones I have always found them great rifles and really fun to shoot.But the recent Winchester versions with a rebounding hammer had totally turned me off to the newest guns. It is now chambered for the.
Soooooooo, instead of considering to remove the Safety or to have it welded up and re-stamped with the correct period wording, especially in this economy , I spent about an hour thinking how I could salvage the Safety since it was already there. The two parts were about $115 if I remember correctly.The parts arrived and I happily commenced removing the Winchester parts and installed the Browning parts, only to discover that the Winchester tang Safety bar was now preventing the Browning hammer to fully cock. I could not call Midwest Gun Works quick enough. After more research I received an email from a gentleman, Mike D in northern California, who told me that I could replace the politically correct Winchester hammer and it's two piece trigger / sear with the correct Browning hammer and one piece Browning trigger / sear.
When the Safety is moved to the "Fire" position, the hammer glides all the way back into full cock without obstruction.The whole job took a couple of hours only because I would file, test fit, file, test fit, etc., plus I like to take my time on my gunsmithing. The gun is essentially LOCKED and SAFE. When it is engaged, the hammer will not move back nor can the loading lever be actuated. Therefore, when the hammer is resting on the inertia firing pin OR when the hammer is in the half cock position, the Safety can be easily engaged. So, I placed the Safety bar in my bench vise, and filed it in such a way (at an angle) that when installed and in the "Fire" position the Safety bar does not obstruct the movement of the hammer at all, and when in the "Safe" position, the Safety bar moves over in the path of the hammer and PREVENTS the hammer from moving any further back than the half cock position.
I cleaned up the hammer hooks and sear engagement surface with a felt wheel and got a very crisp 3# trigger. Getting off the stock without damaging it was the hardest part of that. Adding a Browning 1886 Hammer and one piece trigger/sear was very easy. I thought about welding up the tang and having it re-stamped with the "Model 1886", but after all it is what it is, my design works, and I can put that kind of money towards another rifle.My 1886 Winchester now functions and looks like it is supposed to and I LOVE IT.After eliminating the rebounding hammer on my own gun here are a few impressions.
Easy to see where you'll want to do that as you are putting the gun back together. Just bending that leaf spring and going to a single piece Browning trigger/sear would drastically reduce trigger pull weight.I also took one of my polishing wheels to the back side of the Browning MIM trigger/sear piece to allow that leaf spring to travel more freely on the engagement surface. I removed a tiny cross pin that stopped upward travel on the leaf spring and then bent the leaf spring up a bit to take some pressure off the trigger.which was a great deal of the original trigger pull weight that everyone seems to hate on the tang safety Winchesters. Not the best idea IMO but very simple. All bolted to the lower tang. Trigger pull on these guns is primarily controlled by the leaf spring that is also the mainspring foundation for the strut.
Another half dozen parts and $60 or so but the best way to correct weak hammer strikes with the Browning hammer installed I think. At some point I will have it filled more permanently.I had also ordered the complete mainspring/strut set up for the '86 Browning. After that discovery I decided to pull all the internal tang safety parts off the gun and glue the sliding tang piece down. Dismal thought at best for what I might want to use a lever gun for. And that WILL LOCK THE GUN UP solidly. (think a tried and true 1911 firing pin design here) After shooting the gun a bit it is painfully obvious to me that at some point no matter who you are or your rifle skills you will unintentionally engage the the tang safety during rapid fire with this gun.
I was getting 1 in 30 misfires so I switched to Federal Primers, I am thinking of pulling the firing pin out cleaning it,Making sure it was not gummed up, making sure there are no burrs and hopefully this has fixed the problem. The 1886 is the same trigger as the 1892 but the modern ones have a 3 mm pin hole. I used all the original fittings, apart from the stainless main spring coil strut I made nothing else , I honed the trigger sear on a diamond wheel and trigger is about 3 pound with no creep, if anything it is a tad too light. I bought and fitted a new Browning hammer and Trigger, I used the original main spring and made up a new hammer strut which goes inside the coilspring it is made from Stainless steel. But it gets a little more complicated that described on the previous web site links once you add the Browning hammer if my gun is any example.If I were to do it again on a rifle used purely for hunting with no worries for cosmetics I would buy only the Browning one piece sear/trigger (not the hammer) and totally remove both the tang safety and the rebounding hammer function and live without a fully functioning half cock notch.Hi my name is Vaughn G , I live in Australia , we do not have as many choices as you guys and have to take what we can get.I bought a 1886 Winchester short rifle and was agast at not having a true half cock, I modified the saftey as you suggested , I think I will remove it eventually and weld up the tang.
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